The Fall/Winter 2023–2024 collections of New York Fashion Week took place over six days, from February 10–February 15, 2023.
Rodarte’s runway presentation kicked off New York Fashion Week, as 74 brands showcased their most recent collections throughout that time. For the first time in a long time, Thom Browne’s business, Thom Browne, debuted its collection in New York during Fashion Week this season, which coincided with his appointment as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).
During the week when Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang held their fall/winter 2023–2024 shows without a schedule, New York City was a hive of fashion activity.
Highlights of each brand’s most recent New York Fashion Week collections are listed here.
Marc Jacobs
True to his word, the collection was infused with the same style that Westwood once loved. Models walked nonchalantly in high-heeled platform shoes with their arms crossed in the spotlights shining in the pitch-dark venue. Garments were bleached, denim, canvas, faux fur, patchwork, and crushed velvet, reminiscent of the punk movement of old.
Marc Jacobs presented its Fall/Winter 2023 collection on February 2 ahead of the official New York Fashion Week schedule.
The brand has been presenting only digital collections for the past few years since its last show in February 2022, but this season it made a comeback to a physical runway show for the first time in about three years. This collection, titled “Heroes,” is a tribute to British designer Vivienne Westwood, who passed away last December.
On the show note, Jacobs said, “With the turn of another season in our endless search for value, importance, and possibilities, it is through these collections that we continue our ever-expanding notions of beauty and craft,” “With a controlled abandon and driving frenetic energy we reflect on life beyond the studio.”
Rodarte
RODARTE’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection was truly a mesmerizing silver display that blended creativity and artistry. The show venue was Williamsburg Savings Bank. Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy drew inspiration for this season from the “fairy world,” which was well reflected in the whimsical designs that walked the runway.
The collection featured glamorous evening gowns and pieces that blended dark and romantic elements. The show opened with a series of dramatic bell-sleeved jersey pieces. Leading the beautiful fusion of classic and contemporary pieces were gothic fairies in Siouxsie Sioux-inspired eye makeup and black lipstick.
Also featured were burnout velvet with sequins and floral appliques, and black satin dresses with Victorian detailing. Beaded fringe slip dresses with oversized black velvet sleeves drew attention.
The finale featured four models shaped like bulbs with metallic fringe, a testament to the designer’s creative approach to constantly improve the collection and make it more reflective of their unique style.
COLLINA STRADA
Corinna Strada, led by Hillary Taymor appeals for social messages such as sustainability, inclusiveness, accessibility, and animal rights through fashion.
For the Fall-Winter 2011 collection, under the theme of “Please Don’t Eat My Friends,” models dressed as animals with special make-up strutted down the runway in the guise of animals. The special makeup, including artificial noses, whiskers, and beaks, was applied.
As always, sustainable and deadstock materials were used in the collection, with colorful satin pop star dresses, shirred tops, floral organza layers, velvet cargo pants, and other looks favored by the brand’s Gen-Z fashionistas.
In collaboration with Italian manufacturer Vitelli, Taymor presented recycled yarn knitwear, flap hats, and animal tails; and with Vans, she presented a pair of slip-on sneakers.
The show was a playful expression of Taymor’s ideal of “eliminating the boundary between animals and humans in all aspects of clothing, makeup, and the runway walk so that all living things on earth are equal.”
Coach
One of the hottest brands at New York Fashion Week 2023 was Coach. This season, the brand focused on classic elements, showcasing shearling, leather, and denim in fun proportions and shades.
The show, held at the Park Avenue Armory, featured distressed knit dresses, double-breasted trench coats, denim silhouettes, and edgy leathers, showcasing the collection’s modern blend of American heritage and signature codes. Brand staples such as trench coats, voluminous sheers, maxi skirts, and floor-length silhouettes were further refined, refreshed, and youthful. Fluffy outerwear and reintroduced shearling also caught the eye.
Creative Director Stuart Vevers said that the Fall collection was born out of the belief that only by showing your true self as you are can you inspire others.
Notable in this collection is the expansion of “Coach (Re)loved,” Coach’s unique circular eco-system that recycles, rebuilds, and reuses its own bags.
This season, the collection features remade leather sneakers with uppers made from used Coach bags that have been repurposed. Other pieces include heritage outerwear made from discarded leather scraps and colorful silk chiffon slip dresses naturally dyed with natural plants, each piece designed to minimize waste.
In the accessories department, bags in signature patterns and colorful patent leathers, such as the “Penn” pouch inspired by Coach archive pieces from the 2000s, were on show.
